50 kilometres from Bagan, perched on top of an ancient volcanic plug on the slopes of an extinct volcano known as Mount Popa is the sacred Popa Taung Kalat monastery. The monastery is famous for being home to ’37 nat’ (spirits) which are represented by mannequin statues which can be found in the small shrine at the base of the outcrop.
If you are feeling energetic and want to see something different then it’s worth setting aside half a day to visit Mount Popa. I say energetic because you will need to climb 777 steps from the base of the outcrop up to the monastery and in bare feet too!
We wanted to see Mount Popa as it was something different, it’s close to Bagan and the 360 degree panorama views from the monastery were supposed to be excellent. To get there we hired a shared taxi which we shared with two friends that we had met on our travels through Myanmar. The cost of the car and driver was 40,0000 kyat so if you can share the cost with other travellers then it makes a cost effective day out and certainly more efficient way of seeing the monastery. Alternatively, there is a pick up truck that departs the bus station in the morning but this is less convenient and takes longer. Another option is to jump on a tour.
We organised the shared taxi in Nyaung U through Ever Sky Information Service in restaurant row next to Aroma 2 Indian restaurant.
Our driver picked us up at 9am from our hotel, our friends Jonathon and Sirid were already in the car. Our driver, a retired English teacher and now a tour guide, was able to give us some good information and answer any questions we had. It is handy to have a guide/driver as all the signs at Mount Popa monastery are in Burmese and you need a guide to explain the stories and meaning behind the nat. The drive to Popa was an opportunity to see more of the Myanmar countryside, although it wasn’t looking particularly scenic as it was arid, it reminded me of the Australian bush in many ways. I would love to see it after the wet season, it would certainly be a very different place.
Our first stop was a Palm Farm and Distillery. Here they make both lollies (candy) and toddy (alcoholic beverage). Our guide explained how they squeeze out the juice using the traditional method with the cow turning the wheel to separate the juice from the fruit. They then boil it for an hour to collect the sugar then mix it with different flavours to make the candy.
The juice is also used to make an alcoholic beverage (Jungle Juice). For this its distilled, Vaughan and Jonathon were particularly interested in how the liquor was made and even got to try some!
We did another quick stop at a restaurant which was also going to be our lunch stop on the way back. Our driver encouraged us to use the bathrooms at the restaurant as they were clean, the ones at Mount Popa he says you really don’t want to use!
We made another stop shortly before reaching the monastery where we could get a good panoramic photo. I have to say when I saw the sheerness and height of the rock face I suddenly felt that the climb up might be more punishing than I thought. However just like Sigiriya Rock in Sri Lanka it’s deceiving and is perceived to be a heck of a lot worse than it actually is. The climb turned out not to be that bad at all.
Our driver dropped us at the base opposite the steps. He told us to take our time and enjoy it and he would meet us when we returned and would then take us into the nat shrine and explain the history of the nats. It wasn’t hard to find the base of the steps, just follow the hoards past the colourful stalls selling, flowers, trinkets and souvenirs. The 777 steps climb up through a covered walkway which makes the whole experience much more pleasant as you are protected from the blazing Burmese heat. Shoes do have to be removed though and left at the base in a shoe rack.
The climb is not without distractions, for one locals will stop you for photos, you could be detained for more than 5 minutes while each and every family member takes their turn! Most of the time it’s just a selfie they want with you, take it in your stride, it’s all a bit of fun and a good way to connect with the locals. However, I don’t suggest you try a selfie with the guardians of the staircase and if you have food or other objects of interest then look out you’re going to be a target! I’m talking about the hordes of Macaque monkeys that seemingly parade the stairway like they own it, looking for mischief at every opportunity.
Macaques can be aggressive as Jonathon found out when he approached a mum and baby for a closer photo, she was not impressed and gave chase, teeth bared. I have never seen a Frenchman move so fast! God how I wished I had videoed it! If you don’t like monkeys then Mount Popa might not be for you, otherwise keep your stuff close and don’t take any food or loose shiny objects on the trek up. If you’re fortunate enough on your climb you may spot one of the slow walking hermit monks called yeti who wear tall peaked hats, we were not fortunate that day.
On the way up you will also come across people sweeping the steps and will try encourage you to drop money in their donation boxes. Do not drop money in these boxes as per the warning sign at the base of the steps. The official voluntarily donation box for keeping the monastery clean is at the base of the steps.
Along the staircase to the top, various temples and shrines provide a chance for rest and spiritual reflection on why you’re tackling such a climb.
On reaching the summit we made our way through the labyrinth of shrines housing colourful nat figures and emerged to an open terrace with the single gold stupa and many smaller stupas, a bell and a large gong.
It was a bright hazy day so views were not quite as spectacular as we hoped but we still had some good views of Mount Popa itself and various temples and shrines dotted around the nearby countryside.
We also had some interaction with locals which was nice. The monastery itself is not that large so doesn’t really take too much time to explore, we probably spent about half an hour or more before descending.
At the base of the steps we met up with our driver who took us to the shrine with the nats. A lady gave me a lei of flowers on the way in and our guide explained what needed to be done. So standing in front of the Queen Mother of Popa nat I handed my flowers to this lady who then brushed the flowers against the nat muttering some prayers at the same time. In parallel to all these goings on I had to make a wish. Well I’m still waiting for that lottery win!! Oh and the flowers don’t come free you will be charged 1000 kyat for them on your exit! Our guide explained all the other nats, each having their place and special powers. A nat in the form of a child is where you take your child if they are upset or sick and the nat spirit will make the child feel better again. It was interesting to watch the devoted worshippers adorn their deities with money, flowers and other trinkets of importance, I’m glad we took the time to visit its certainly something different and makes a pleasant half day excursion.
On the way back we stopped at the restaurant for a very pleasant lunch before arriving back at our hotel in the early afternoon where we enjoyed the rest of the day relaxing by the pool 🙂
Visited: March 2016
If you have enjoyed the photos and would like to see more! then the complete gallery can be viewed in the Trip Photos
We love to read all your travel news DIL. Well done again xx MIL
Thanks MIL xxx